When Fabio Trabocchi returned to Washington in 2011, it was to open Fiola, the first restaurant of his own. The location was significant. It was the spot where Bice once operated, and where he began his career in Washington. The goal of Fiola, a modern upscale trattoria, was to use traditional Italian dishes, many of which Trabocchi learned as a child growing up in Le Marche (a heavily agricultural region of Italy on the Adriatic Coast), as a springboard for his modern adaptations. …
As a coastal area, fish and seafood are central elements of the cuisine from La Marche, so naturally Trabocchi has included them throughout Fiola’s menu. Brodetto, a fish stew from the Adriatic Coast, demonstrates Trabocchi’s mastery of the traditional. His version, which varies daily, consists of a main fish (on recent visits it was Atlantic wolffish and branzino) cooked in a light tomato-based broth with an assortment of shellfish, in the shell. While light, the intense seafood flavor makes it a thoroughly satisfying dish. […]
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