Umani Ronchi’s “Plenio” is one of two “flagship” Verdicchio produced at this impressive Marche-based winery. Produced from some of the best Verdicchio grapes harvested from Umani Ronchi’s “Torre” vineyard, this 1999 “Plenio” Verdicchio was fermented in a mix of stainless steel and oak vessels, before a further 12 months of maturation on the lees of that fermentation.
Few people outside of Italy are aware that Verdicchio is a grape variety that can produce wines of extraordinary longevity, yet this 1999 “Plenio” Verdicchio dei Castelli dei Jesi Riserva is a case in point. Now a gold colour of moderate intensity in the glass, this rare and unusual wine combines the charms of greengages, golden raspberries and waxed lemons with hints of petrol and green apple skins that are reminiscent of a mature Riesling. Quite rich and full, the acidity that underpins this wine has been maintained remarkably well and whilst bottle variation will likely become an issue, some bottles of this 1999 “Plenio” could well endure another five to ten years in cellar yet. A finish of impeccable length lingers as this remarkable wine slowly fades.
SCORE: 91 points
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